November 2010

I often get questions asking about “a good skin care regimen” or asking what products are important to help with “anti-aging.” Well, this can be a loaded question as there are a TON of skin care products out there. It’s brilliant for corporate America as we are easily and eagerly coaxed into buying something that can help us look younger, brighter, more “illuminous”… And before we know it, we have spent hundreds of dollars on products sitting in a bathroom cabinet somewhere (most of them opened and only used a few times with the naive thought that they will be used again another time).

Skin care can propose quite a challenge on occasion. We often want a “quick fix” (myself included) and have difficulty with the concept of compliance with various step regimens, etc. Aside from Botox/Dysport and cosmetic fillers (which are amazing), nothing is going to dramatically improve your skin over night, or even over the next week. It is a slow process, and patience and diligence is required to see the benefits.

So, now…what to use? As previously stated, the overwhelming options out there can be somewhat daunting. So, I encourage people to start with the basics:

  1. Sunscreen- MORNING. DAILY. Broad-spectrum UV protection is not just for a day at the beach. It is imperative every single day—even in the middle of dreary January. Protection has to be the staple and foundation of any skin care regimen. It doesn’t matter how much you do for corrective treatment if you don’t protect the future damage from occurring. Something with at least a 15-30 SPF with protection from both UVA and UVB rays is recommended. Two of my personal favorites are Anthelios by La Roche Posay and Journee by Neocutis. Also, Skin Medica and Obagi make popular sunscreens as well. We carry all of these products in our Aesthetic Center. If you are looking for a more budget friendly option, I love Cetaphil and CeraVe lotions with SPF as well. Both are great for sensitive skin and non-comedogenic so they won’t clog pores. These can be found over the counter at any drug store.
  2. Retinoids- EVENING. Retinoids should just be in the water. They are the second staple ingredient in a skin care regimen. If you are only going to do 2 things—these are the two. Retinoids increase cell turnover, and thus help to stimulate increased collagen resulting in tighter skin, reduction in wrinkles, and lightened hyperpigmentation. They are also used for comedonal acne by working to reduce oil production and pore-size, and get rid of those stubborn black heads! There are many brands and strengths of retinoids. I tend to start low and go slow because of the drying effect. They can be somewhat drying which can lead to redness, itching, and peeling—specifically when used in higher doses and too much quantity. Start every other night with a pea-sized amount for the whole face, and don’t be afraid to apply a light moisturizer over if needed. As your skin starts to acclimate to the product, you can go up in frequency and strength for added benefit.
  3. Vitamin Antioxidants- MORNING. Anti-oxidants, specifically Vitamin-C serums are important for not just correction, but also prevention against further damage. Vitamin C helps to fight all of the free radicals that our skin is exposed to everyday. This includes the damage from environmental elements and UV rays. It also helps to improve skin tone and lighten sun spots, improve acne, and increase collagen in the skin. You want to apply a few drops to clean skin with your fingertips in the morning BEFORE you apply your moisturizer and sunscreen. Some people will feel a slight tingle sensation that should dissipate and gradually get better as your skin acclimates to it. Recommended products include Obagi’s Professional-C Serum (10% and 15%), Phyto-C Serum, and OPC Gel by Theraderm. Obagi also makes an entire skin care line focusing on the power of antioxidants called Obagi-C RX. I love the cleanser from this line.

**Incorporating these three components into your daily skin care regimen will definitely pay off if you can stick with it. Beyond these three components, there are many other products you can include for more corrective treatments that target your specific skin type. I will briefly mention a few here, but you can also come in to our Aesthetic Center for more information regarding specific products.

Hydroquinone 4%

- Targets melasma and hyperpigmention. Obagi incorporates a lot of hydroquinone in their skin care lines with great success.

Alpha and Beta Hydroxyacids (aka glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acids, etc)

- Great for exfoliation and getting rid of those dead skin cells

Growth Factors

- Helps to smooth fine lines and improves overall tone and texture of skin by helping the skin to regenerate itself. Recommendations: TNS Recovery Complex by SkinMedica and my absolute favorite, Neocutis Bio-Cream. I love this stuff!

Peptides

- Helps to increase collagen in skin giving a tighter, firmer look to skin.